Day 35 Weobley caste to Llanmadoc

Sunday 10th February 2019

Walk distance 5 km

Cycle 0 km

Height 50 m est

hours

Total coastal distance walked 2km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 457.85km

Running height climbed 12370m

Today I failed to eat all the cooked breakfast. Three days in a row was to much.  Drove a tortuous route to Llanmadoc to avoid a half marathon walked up the road to Landimore.

I was amazed that there was another ruined castle.  The landscape changed here.  Although the estuary with marshes was similar, the landward high ground, with this castle upon it, was limestone. Lots of exposed rock makes it more dramatic.  The path dropped down to the edge of the hill and follows the top edge of the marsh.  Probably dry much of the time the strandline was beyond the path, suggesting the winter tide had been very high.  In places the path was muddy and it felt like my boots would be pulled off with the suction.  Towards the village are stepping stones crossing a stream.  But the heavy rain meant these were covered up (even though the tide was out) 

I took the alternative longer route back.  This was a very short walk, but in blue sky the strong wind was tolerable. I am looking forward to walking the rest of the Gower. The hills with ancient forts look worth visiting.

I was surprised that from Gowerton I was back home in 2 hours.

Day 34 Burry Port to Weobley castle

Saturday 9th February 2019

Walk distance 0km

Cycle 33 km

Height 70 mest

5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 0km

Total coastal distance cycled 32km

Running coastal total distance 455.85km

Running height climbed 12320m

After another huge cooked breakfast I put my bike together ready and then drove to Gowerton, to then catch the train back to Bury Port. The area seems very built up from roadside and there are was a lot of traffic. The journey went well and by 1030 I was on my bike. With the wind behind me I made swift progress. But it was too chilly to stop much. Where there was industry is now open recreational areas, some modern apartment and a great cycle route hugging much of the coast. This is really well laid out and signed. The marshes are magnificent here and waders and waterfowl feed really close to people. Despite the weather its clearly popular with many people making use of it. There is ugliness too, with power lines, the steel works, roads and traffic. The estuary crossing the Loughor bridge was stunning. The castle was a bit of a let down as it had been crumbling for hundreds of years. I carried on the cycle route which hugs the marshes in many places around the north coastline of the gower peninsula. The scale is magnificent and these seem cared for with sheep and ponies grazing. The first section followed the road and I was amazed at the traffic as I couldn't t think where it was headed. In the first village Pen Clawdd a rain storm started so I sheltered in a coffee shop. Ive noticed how loud welsh seems to be in all the places ive eaten. The rain ceased and I carried on, increasingly harder now against a head wind. At Llanrhidian church I stopped for lunch. The church has a very ancient carving in the entrance way. Views across extensive marsh magnificent. The roads hear were quiet and I headed for my destination, Weobley castle. 

This is very imposing, last used as a fortified manor house. No one was around so I had free entry. Rather than cycle on and risk there not being the only evening bus from Llanmadoc I then cycled back to Llanrhidian to catch the bus. Id anticipated leaving my bike to collect later. The bus driver arrived early, to have his break, and was happy for me to ask if I could take the bike too. He looked at the deserted bus and said yes. Great to get back so easily.

Day 33 Kidwelly to Burry Port

Friday 8th February 2019

Walk distance 17 km

Cycle 0 km

Height 0mest

6 hours

Total coastal distance walked km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 423.85km

Running height climbed 12250m

 

 

Wind blown sand

It was very wet and there was a strong gale blowing. I caught the train to Kidwelly and asked for the request stop. It rained hard as got off the train and walked to the coast at the end of the estuary leading from Kidwelly. The path first followed the marsh edge and then a former canal used for transportation of coal. The rain eased off but it was very windy. The first pasture I passed was full of fresh lambs. In the field corner was a well preserved ww2 bunker. After a short walk along the bypass the path followed the sea wall. On the marsh side there was many waders including egret, redshank and snipe.

Along the sea wall were more bunkers. On the left was farmland and also Pembrey airport. This must have been a ww2 fixture. Beyond the functioning airfield there were many disused concrete tracks. The path swung away from the wall following one such track. A herd of cows were spooked by me and kept running ahead until I reached Pembrey forest. Built to stabilise dunes this wood was full of exotic trees, mostly pines. There were very dense stands of cotoneaster. Young holm oak saplings grew on the ride side. Nearer the sea some dune plants grew, but as a dune system it was wrecked. Finally the path emerged onto the beech. The path follows the high tide line. It looked as if last night storms had reached the dunes and the entire edge facing the sea was torn with many shrubs collapsed and sand mounds sculpted by the high tide. The wind was very powerful and spray was blown across the sand. The sea itself was roaring. The tide was out and was an incredibly long way away. For a couple of hours i walked the beach and saw no one. The sands merged with the sea and sky. The dunes behind swamped by scrub.

Amazingly the sun came out but it was still too cold and windy to stop. Several timber shells remained where ships since the 17^th century had become stranded.

Towards the end of the dunes the path crossed the country park and passed former duned converted to ski slopes, park and cycle tracks. Beyond the millenium cycle path started. This section to bury port was the best, with undisturbed natural dunes and extensive marshes. I did wonder though if these will be spoilt if not grazed. Finally I reached the wonderful harbours at Bury port. From the harbour sand could be seen blowing across the beaches. It was hard to stand up now as the wind had become stronger. Once back and refreshed I ate moussaka in the restaurant opposite.

Wildfowl and wetland centre Llanelli

Thursday 7th February 2019

Drove down the M50 and M4 motorway to reach Llanelli and the wetland centre. The wild areas in the millenium wetland was rather devoid of birds. I did see a few different ducks, bullfinches and redshank which was nice. The coastal mudflats and salt lagoons were even quieter. Either the strong wind or workers repairing the sea wall had scared the birds off. The collection was similar to Slimbridge, but smaller in scale. A hansom American man gave me his spare bird seed before he left. My favourites were the nene, red breasted geese and cranes. Flamingos looked incongruous in the winter. I also took some pictures of our native ducks. After drove into Llanelli thinking of buying a few things. But I decided to move on as it didnt look a very welcoming place. Burry Port looked much more welcoming. After I checked in to the Globe bed and breakfast I walked down to the harbour before the sun set. It was very cold so I went back to the small centre to see if I could find somewhere to eat. I ended up eating in at a nice warm fish and chip shop.

Day 32 Taf to Llannsteffan

 Sunday 20^th January 2019

Taf to Towy Llansteffan

Walk distance 5km

Cycle 0 km

Height 114mest

2.5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 5km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 406.85km

Running height climbed 12250m

Parked at Llansteffan and walked up to the castle. Views were fine and its a superb castle ruin. Then dropped down to the beach. With the tide out I walked to Scots bay . Then the path climbed gradually to Wharley point. The views of all Camarthan bay are the best I have seen, with the rivers scouring their way through exposed beds of sand, silt and mud.

The return walk was via the old lane linking the ferry crossings over the Taf and Towy. Although tarmaced without white lines the modern lane is single carriageway. Taking into account the width of the verge it is obvious two carts could pass. On the slopes vehicles had eroded the lane down. In one place over 18 feet deep! A lovely mornings walk in bright sunshine.

Taf

Towy from Llansteffan

Day 31 Pendine to Laugharne

Saturday 19^th January 2019

Pendine to Laugharne

Walk distance 17km

Cycle 0 km

Height  50mest

6 hours

Total coastal distance walked 17km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 401.85km

Running height climbed 12136m

Pendine sands

 Caught the 9.09 bus from Laugharne to Pendine. Just about to set off and a few rain drops made me decide to put on my full waterproofs. Proved right as it rained very hard for half an hour. As I progressed along the wet sands the weather improved. Unlike yesterday there was no wind so much milder. The sea was already a long way out and I made a gradual beeline for the water edge, and thence after made a beeline to pop my head over the dunes as far as the caution explosive signs. For much of the time I followed the drift lines. I have never seen so many razor shells. In places shells of all kinds were so numerous. Unlike on many beeches the sand was very smooth, only rippled occasionally. The beech gradually widened and it wasn’t possible to see the sea...in fact the clouds and mist merged with the sands. When the sun broke through the clouds could be seen reflecting on the wet sand. The beach is 10km long. 

Razor shells

Eventually I reached he turning point marked by a MOD watch tower. Unsure whether I could get across the marsh on a sea wall I followed a farm track to East farm where I picked up a right of way. There were huge flocks of lapwing 1000s strong on the marshes. Saw lots of very well nourished cattle. The path was tricky as every stile was broken or covered in bramble. Once across the marsh the path followed the base of a high rocky outcrop. Water dripped down ivy clad rocks. Some of this ivy hid caves. One, now quarried out, was found to have early human, stone age tools in it. The path climbed up to a view point over the estuaries from the true headland. The path descended to Laugharne village where I walked around the castles walls to reach Dylan Thomas boathouse. Unfortunately, the castle was closed for winter. After a quick shower and change at the farm I returned to buy and eat fish looking across to the castle.

Pendine dunes

Taf Estuary and marshes

Laugharne castle

Day 30 Ferryside to Kidwelly

Friday 18^th January 2019

Ferryside to Kidwelly

Walk distance 6.5km

Cycle 0 km

Height  172est

2.5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 6.5km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 384.85km

Running height climbed 12086m

Visited Kidwelly Castle. I could see it was magnificent despite having to be wrapped up as if climbing a mountain. The forecast had been for heavy rain all day and that proved correct. A lady I spoke to was revisiting it after 40 years remembering it was one of the best she had ever seen. It was key in many battles early on in Norman times and at the time the Welsh revolted. It didnt see battle in the civil war. It is an ideal castle to explore, part ruined but accessible with lots of passage ways, spiral staircases and rooms to explore. Even discrete plop and drop toilets. From the parapets it is just about possible to visualise the scale of the place as the numerous walls and roof joins show where buildings and roofs, long gone, were attached. After a decisive check of timetables I walked quickly through the village to catch a train. Narrowly nearly missing it as I went to the wrong platform first. With no bridge I dashed back to the level crossing. The conductor asked where I was going and on saying Ferryside he went to tell the driver to stop at the request halt. He didn’t return to sell me a ticket. At Ferryside the rain had eased to drizzle so I looked around the crossing point before starting on the walk back over the farmland dominated headland. Across the estuary the village and ruined castle of Llansteffan could be seen. But first I Walked passed many intriguing houses on cliff road. One decorated with a dozen vehicle models the size of bumper cars. Planes and cars etc. perched on the house roof. Beautiful Victorian house too as well as dull 60s and 70s welsh houses. The walk climbed steeply to sheep pasture. Sadly, I noticed that anywhere within striking distance to habitation was littered with human debris. Plastic, metal, bottles, tyres. The fields were muddy but lush grass growth stopped me from getting too filthy.

Walked through the hilltop village of Llansaint. The heavy rain put me off exploring and I missed the 6th century memorials to local chieftains in the church. Like many coastal church the tower is tremendously high, presumably built as a look out. A bizarre shrubby garden, without a house, on a promontory with an open sign heralded come in. The views of the estuaries were stunning despite the on set of the heaviest rain yet. This was to last the rest of walk. From the garden all the estuaries and enormous spit and dunes could be seen with Pembrey forest looking dark and quite grim. 

At moments like this I realise how insignificant we are. Despite perhaps 2000 years of intervention, castle building 1000 years ago and intensive agriculture 100 years ago we barely touch the landscape. These lands are moulded by ice ages, rivers and oceans. They’ll continue to be for millenia with or without us. Although we’ve had a good go at destroying much of the wildlife. Factory barren fields, flailed hedges and few trees. The path descended an old drove trackway eventually reaching a minor road that led back to Kidwelly.  Close to the marshes i could see the first waders close too. Lots of curlew, lapwing and possibly redshank.

Back at the car I made a valiant attempt to strip off all my wet clothes. The moment I’m in the nude a lady opens the car door next to me. I figure with rain and steam she won’t notice me struggling. Thanks to modern technology i check the menus at nearby cafes and when the rain eases make a dash for the gatehouse cafe. Amazingly they serve the perfect meal to a cold walker. Chilli jacket! Hope this will keep the chesty cough from worsening. Before leaving the rain briefly eased so I managed to take some photos of the castle. Back to the B and B to dry the clothes.