Day 9 Poppit Sands to Moylegrove

Day 9
Saturday 29th March
Poppit Sands to Moylegrove

Walk distance 13km
Cycle 0km
Height 360mest
4 hours
Bus from Molygrove to Poppit Sands

Total coastal distance walked  13
Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance  119.25km
Running height climbed  3133m

Estuary and Cardigan island

Parked at Molygrove and caught the Poppit Rocket back to Poppit Sands.  The bus was filled with the banter of several mostly elderly, locals.  One got on at a garden centre along the tiny lane with a tray of alpines.  The man next to me said it was a good garden centre and worth a visit.   I had already decided not to walk too far as the weather was very windy and I had read the path to New Port was difficult in normal weather. So at a leisurely pace I followed the dead end lane passed the hostel and to the last farm. The sun shone a bit and the colors and view across the estuary to the cliff hotel.

The breaking waves were large. As I reached and rounded Cemaes Head I realised just how strong the wind was and it seemed to be gusting off the land. I glimpsed a peregrine flying by. The sea was too rough to see much in the way of bird life.  I reached a gate which I struggled to close against the wind and with the path narrowing close to very steep drops I decided to retrace my steps and find an inland route. Even here it was windy but I followed paths, mostly sunken bridleways lined by turf covered banks, it seemed as if everything was just about to burst into growth. Foxglove rosettes were bright green and blackthorn buds were just about to break.

The most notable place I passed was a chapel in ruins in the midst of nowhere. The pulpit was still standing despite the roof starting to cave in. I could see other chapels scattered across the farmland. All servicing a small community. Throughout the walk I passed many ruins under many brambles, and in woodlands were derelict walls and buildings. I guess the population was much larger once. Sustained by industries long since gone. Maybe quarrying and fishing. Also farms now need few labourers so I guess many buildings are redundant.  I must read up about the history of Welsh chapels.

I headed back to the coast where a small stream cut down to the sea to see if the wind had eased.  I am glad I did as saw a peregrine again and the cliffs I had bypassed had  terrific folds in the rocks, these being Pembrokeshire’s highest cliffs. The wind was still too much and the path even narrower. I headed inland again.

The weather was changing and after leaving the cliffs it became  grey and colder. I followed quiet tarmac lanes and then dropped down to the deserted beech of  Ceibwr bay. The sun appeared and I finally sat down in a sheltered spot, the only person on the beach.

Ceibwr bay

The last km wound up through an attractive ash woodland along a stream fringed by violets, wild garlic leaves and golden saxifrage. A few daffodils, celandine and primrose added to the yellow of spring.   A couple of tantalising signs pointed to the garden centre café.  Once the walk was over I drove to the garden centre I had passed earlier in the day, for a coffee and a wander.  I could not resist coming away with a few plants for our new garden.   Tight curls of pond weed in a pot for our new pond. I seem to always be carting plants around the country.  Before now I have bought plants from driveway sales and carried them many km in my rucsac when walking.

View from hotel window 

Day 8 Gwbert to Poppit Sands

Day 8
Friday 27th March
Gwbert to Poppit Sands

Walk distance 4.7km
Cycle 4.8km
Height 54m
2 hours
Bus from Poppit Sands to Cardigan

Total coastal distance walked  4.7km
Total coastal distance cycled 4.8km

Running coastal total distance  106.25km
Running height climbed  2773m


Drove via Rhayader to Cardigan and parked at Poppit Sands at the end of the Teifi Estuary. The recently surfaced and enormous car park suggested that this is a very popular spot in season. After a snack on the beech I waited at a very smart brand new timber bus shelter for the bus, aptly named  the Poppit rocket.

 It arrived promptly and I took it to the centre of Cardigan and hopped off by the castle walls. Within a minute of crossing the bridge over the Teifi and leaving the small town I was walking alongside primrose and celandine lined streams and paths. I followed the coastal path across very wet fields to the large village of St. Dogmaels. The Abbey museum was open so I explored it before wandering amongst the ruins. How many people are disappointed by the interactive displays in a museum when they don’t work?  When there is a button to press, I press it. Nothing happens and I press again, and again, and again…In the museum were ancient Christian stone crosses, undoubtedly the most striking objects on display.  The Abbey fell into disuse 4 years after the dissolution of the monasteries. Robbed of stone for houses and a sixteenth century church little survived. The



crypt, now roofless, with a few remnant columns was the most interesting. After a coffee in the cafe I walked through the picturesque village and by its pond decorated with ducks. Daffodils colored many gardens.


At St. Dogmaels the Pembrokeshire Coastal path officially starts, marked by a small and rather non descript plinth. At this point I must have just passed my 100km mark.  The views down the woodland cloaked winding estuary were impressive.

From the village the path went close to the river and then rejoined the tarmac lane to Poppit sands. As the road drew closer to the waters edge I could see and here curlew and oystercatcher very close up.

One plant I passed I would have to look up. A large yellow green umbellifer in flower. I thought Alexander’s. Later I confirmed this and its home range is Macedonia.  Introduced to Britain as a herb apparently all of it is edible.

Once back at the car I drove to the Cliff hotel at Gwbert. After a brief nap I cycled the north side of the estuary completing the only bit of the Ceredigion coast line section I had not walked.
In Cardigan I ate stir fry at the Chinese I had enjoyed so much on the previous visit.  The bar at the hotel was so packed I did not make use of it, and instead settled down to watch films in a rather luxurious bed room.  The views across the estuary from the window were fine, looking directly across to Poppit Sands.