Day 32 Taf to Llannsteffan

 Sunday 20^th January 2019

Taf to Towy Llansteffan

Walk distance 5km

Cycle 0 km

Height 114mest

2.5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 5km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 406.85km

Running height climbed 12250m

Parked at Llansteffan and walked up to the castle. Views were fine and its a superb castle ruin. Then dropped down to the beach. With the tide out I walked to Scots bay . Then the path climbed gradually to Wharley point. The views of all Camarthan bay are the best I have seen, with the rivers scouring their way through exposed beds of sand, silt and mud.

The return walk was via the old lane linking the ferry crossings over the Taf and Towy. Although tarmaced without white lines the modern lane is single carriageway. Taking into account the width of the verge it is obvious two carts could pass. On the slopes vehicles had eroded the lane down. In one place over 18 feet deep! A lovely mornings walk in bright sunshine.

Taf

Towy from Llansteffan

Day 31 Pendine to Laugharne

Saturday 19^th January 2019

Pendine to Laugharne

Walk distance 17km

Cycle 0 km

Height  50mest

6 hours

Total coastal distance walked 17km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 401.85km

Running height climbed 12136m

Pendine sands

 Caught the 9.09 bus from Laugharne to Pendine. Just about to set off and a few rain drops made me decide to put on my full waterproofs. Proved right as it rained very hard for half an hour. As I progressed along the wet sands the weather improved. Unlike yesterday there was no wind so much milder. The sea was already a long way out and I made a gradual beeline for the water edge, and thence after made a beeline to pop my head over the dunes as far as the caution explosive signs. For much of the time I followed the drift lines. I have never seen so many razor shells. In places shells of all kinds were so numerous. Unlike on many beeches the sand was very smooth, only rippled occasionally. The beech gradually widened and it wasn’t possible to see the sea...in fact the clouds and mist merged with the sands. When the sun broke through the clouds could be seen reflecting on the wet sand. The beach is 10km long. 

Razor shells

Eventually I reached he turning point marked by a MOD watch tower. Unsure whether I could get across the marsh on a sea wall I followed a farm track to East farm where I picked up a right of way. There were huge flocks of lapwing 1000s strong on the marshes. Saw lots of very well nourished cattle. The path was tricky as every stile was broken or covered in bramble. Once across the marsh the path followed the base of a high rocky outcrop. Water dripped down ivy clad rocks. Some of this ivy hid caves. One, now quarried out, was found to have early human, stone age tools in it. The path climbed up to a view point over the estuaries from the true headland. The path descended to Laugharne village where I walked around the castles walls to reach Dylan Thomas boathouse. Unfortunately, the castle was closed for winter. After a quick shower and change at the farm I returned to buy and eat fish looking across to the castle.

Pendine dunes

Taf Estuary and marshes

Laugharne castle

Day 30 Ferryside to Kidwelly

Friday 18^th January 2019

Ferryside to Kidwelly

Walk distance 6.5km

Cycle 0 km

Height  172est

2.5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 6.5km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 384.85km

Running height climbed 12086m

Visited Kidwelly Castle. I could see it was magnificent despite having to be wrapped up as if climbing a mountain. The forecast had been for heavy rain all day and that proved correct. A lady I spoke to was revisiting it after 40 years remembering it was one of the best she had ever seen. It was key in many battles early on in Norman times and at the time the Welsh revolted. It didnt see battle in the civil war. It is an ideal castle to explore, part ruined but accessible with lots of passage ways, spiral staircases and rooms to explore. Even discrete plop and drop toilets. From the parapets it is just about possible to visualise the scale of the place as the numerous walls and roof joins show where buildings and roofs, long gone, were attached. After a decisive check of timetables I walked quickly through the village to catch a train. Narrowly nearly missing it as I went to the wrong platform first. With no bridge I dashed back to the level crossing. The conductor asked where I was going and on saying Ferryside he went to tell the driver to stop at the request halt. He didn’t return to sell me a ticket. At Ferryside the rain had eased to drizzle so I looked around the crossing point before starting on the walk back over the farmland dominated headland. Across the estuary the village and ruined castle of Llansteffan could be seen. But first I Walked passed many intriguing houses on cliff road. One decorated with a dozen vehicle models the size of bumper cars. Planes and cars etc. perched on the house roof. Beautiful Victorian house too as well as dull 60s and 70s welsh houses. The walk climbed steeply to sheep pasture. Sadly, I noticed that anywhere within striking distance to habitation was littered with human debris. Plastic, metal, bottles, tyres. The fields were muddy but lush grass growth stopped me from getting too filthy.

Walked through the hilltop village of Llansaint. The heavy rain put me off exploring and I missed the 6th century memorials to local chieftains in the church. Like many coastal church the tower is tremendously high, presumably built as a look out. A bizarre shrubby garden, without a house, on a promontory with an open sign heralded come in. The views of the estuaries were stunning despite the on set of the heaviest rain yet. This was to last the rest of walk. From the garden all the estuaries and enormous spit and dunes could be seen with Pembrey forest looking dark and quite grim. 

At moments like this I realise how insignificant we are. Despite perhaps 2000 years of intervention, castle building 1000 years ago and intensive agriculture 100 years ago we barely touch the landscape. These lands are moulded by ice ages, rivers and oceans. They’ll continue to be for millenia with or without us. Although we’ve had a good go at destroying much of the wildlife. Factory barren fields, flailed hedges and few trees. The path descended an old drove trackway eventually reaching a minor road that led back to Kidwelly.  Close to the marshes i could see the first waders close too. Lots of curlew, lapwing and possibly redshank.

Back at the car I made a valiant attempt to strip off all my wet clothes. The moment I’m in the nude a lady opens the car door next to me. I figure with rain and steam she won’t notice me struggling. Thanks to modern technology i check the menus at nearby cafes and when the rain eases make a dash for the gatehouse cafe. Amazingly they serve the perfect meal to a cold walker. Chilli jacket! Hope this will keep the chesty cough from worsening. Before leaving the rain briefly eased so I managed to take some photos of the castle. Back to the B and B to dry the clothes.

Day 29 Amroth to Pendine Carmarthan coast

Thursday  17^th January 2019

Amroth to Pendine

Walk distance 7km

Cycle 0 km

Height  300est

2.5 hours

Total coastal distance walked 7km

Total coastal distance cycled 0km

Running coastal total distance 378.35km

Running height climbed 11914m

Quick journey down to Pendine, via Abergavenny and Brecon. Passing through Laugharne (pronounced Lorn)I spotted the B and B which was great as it might be hard to find after dark. Arriving at Pendine at 1230 I had time to explore before the bus was due at 2pm. The beach looks magnificent. A red flag was up and a soldier was patrolling so access was restricted to the western end. I asked when the main beach would be open. Turned out to be Saturday which would help me plan my routes. The sun was shining but it was cold. Inland the village has an air of desolation with all the seaside shops cafes and bars closed. A few people were dog walking and several guys fixing said closed places. Numerous caravans give the place the appearance of chav ville. I imagine it to be heaving in summer. By the car park is the museum of speed. The beach is where land speed records were set. The short bus ride through narrow lanes took me to Amroth. I alighted the bus at the end of the Pembrokeshire path stone marker where Ann and I had reached maybe 2 years before. I was conscious it would be dark soon so after a few photos commenced following the lane up hill and then picked up the cliff path to Telpyn point. The coastline behind, in sun, looked great. Caldey and Tenby silhouetted against a low sun.

Start at Amroth

The climbs were steeper than I imagined and dropped to small coves. At the top of one, lots of rubbish had been gathered by visitors. Sad so much gets washed up. Perhaps some is from Worcestershire, washed down the river and out into the Bristol channel. I saw dark ducks bobbing in whats known as Camarthan bay. These are wintering birds, made scarce by oil spills. Thankfully there numbers are recovering. A highlight was walking through the lower part of an ancient wooded valley - Teague's wood, reputably Wales last wolf lived here until shot.

Lichen growing among limestone rocks and heather

The tide was in so no sand was visible even along the lengthy Marros sands. There was no possibility of walking the low tide beach route. Much of the cliff side is covered with quite young trees, a sign that these were once all grazed flower meadows. Ironically although nature is reclaiming this marginal agricultural land it is to the loss of the flowers associated with traditional grazing. In land all is intensively farmed. Closer to Pendine there are more rocks, limestone. Heather and even purple moor grass grows here on Ragwen and Gilman point. But even here, with little management it is fast disappearing under a sea of bracken, bramble, gorse and scrub. In one area even the gorse reached 20 foot growing up through young oak. Surprisingly along the grass edged path there were brambles and red campion in flower. In places numerous midges danced over the path. Sometimes the sea was obscured by scrub and the path climbed well away from the shore. Although the bay was calm the crashing of waves against boulders made me aware of its presence. As the afternoon wore on it started to cloud over and the temperature dropped as it became dusk. Twice I stopped for a very short coffee break and snack, but the concern of a cliff path at night made me press on. At the last bay, Morfa Brychan, signs announced the presence of the NT as landowner. A huge concrete block suggested ww2 defences. In fact, these were used for d day training which apparently Churchill watched. There are also remnants of hill forts and burial chambers on the high ground of this short walk. I descended the last slope just as it was getting hard to see. Drove to Hills B and B and was greeted with mulled wine.

Most of the restaurants were closed and pubs not serving meals. I ate in the only open restaurant, a very strange looking one, far too many mirrors and glittery decor. But a nice meal of local gammon. In the depths of mid-winter there were only 3 customers. In the evening watched back to back Torchwood.

Pendine sands at dusk