Welsh hinterland, Dolaucothi Gold Mine

Saturday 25th April
Dolaucothi Gold Mine

I travelled via Leominster and a route I'd not done before through Builth Wells. I love driving through mid Wales, it is so quiet and such a beautiful hilly landscape. I stopped very briefly at Llandovery to buy supplies and looked at the remains of the castle. This castle was the scene of many battles as it was possessed by English and Welsh at different times. There is very little to see though and its location by a car park spoils it.   As I was tired from the previous weekend and every evening of garden fence building I decided to abandon the idea of a long coastal walk after the drive. The further round Pembrokeshire I get the longer the drive from Worcester. Instead I took a seemingly tortuous route to the National Trust goldmine at Dolaucothi.

I arrived just in time for a Victorian tour of the mine and quickly doned a helmet and torch to catch up with the group. This was so good, that after a ham toastie and much needed coffee from the cafe I went on the Roman tour. The guide, Rachel from Essex was very good. By the end I hope I had learnt much about this gold mine in Wales. After I  was really itching to go gold panning, especially after a young girl showed me the flecks of gold she had found. But the competition from many children was just too much. The mine had been worked before Roman times. It must have been targeted by them as a resource to exploit. After just seventy years they had stripped it of the most accessible seems in the quartz. They dug open pits as well as shafts into the hill sides.

Later on,  two separate Victorian mine companies encountered the Roman workings and in one instance found 2000 year old laders,props and the remains of water wheels for pumping water out. Unfortunately for the Victorians, time and again they found the Romans had extracted the gold. They did find gold enough to run the mine for a time. A single bar of Welsh hold is worth a million pounds. The royal family own one bar for use for state rings. The condition for miners must have been poor. In Roman times slaves probably worked it and in Victorian times people worked 12 hour shifts just by candle light deep under ground. Their tunnels were small, following seams. The seams that still hold gold are too expensive to extract now. Perhaps one day they will be reopened.

Their is evidence the Romans built a 7 mile aquaduct to carry water to hillside reservoir. This was used to wash the soil off the hillside to find seems. Today the natural water course still carries lose gold. Hence the panning that visitors can try. The tour down into the Victorian mine was fascinating and on it saw fluorescent bacteria and fungi on the roof , the different rocks, shale and quartz and where they miners encountered roman working. At the end of the tour through the mine we climbed up Roman steps cut into the rock.  In the Roman workings we even saw cave spider nests and were told of a rare fern growing. Definitely recommend visiting this site. By now really too late to visit anywhere else I carried on with the long drive and checked into the Seaview hotel in Fishguard. Despite a little drizzle I wanted to enjoy the sea view and air. Views of the modern harbour walking around the cliff path followed by views if the old lower town. Information sign told about the history of the town, its harbour, smuggling and the last invasion of the kingdom. For example, the upper town was once bombarded by canon from a pirate holding the town to ransom. A canon ball was found in the walls of one hotel when being refurbished. A town smuggler returned with accurate fire and drove the pirate off. I walked the whole length of upper and lower town. Colorful buildings were interspersed with derelict or empty properties. Two pubs in the square looked empty and others closed. I was not sure if I would find somewhere to eat. Maybe the advertising was just poor. I went into the Globe and was relieved they were serving food. As I settled down into the really cosy pub, with two foot thick walls and enormous fireplace I realised I had struck lucky. Friendly staff and the most delicious lasagna I have ever had!

Day 9 Poppit Sands to Moylegrove

Day 9
Saturday 29th March
Poppit Sands to Moylegrove

Walk distance 13km
Cycle 0km
Height 360mest
4 hours
Bus from Molygrove to Poppit Sands

Total coastal distance walked  13
Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance  119.25km
Running height climbed  3133m

Estuary and Cardigan island

Parked at Molygrove and caught the Poppit Rocket back to Poppit Sands.  The bus was filled with the banter of several mostly elderly, locals.  One got on at a garden centre along the tiny lane with a tray of alpines.  The man next to me said it was a good garden centre and worth a visit.   I had already decided not to walk too far as the weather was very windy and I had read the path to New Port was difficult in normal weather. So at a leisurely pace I followed the dead end lane passed the hostel and to the last farm. The sun shone a bit and the colors and view across the estuary to the cliff hotel.

The breaking waves were large. As I reached and rounded Cemaes Head I realised just how strong the wind was and it seemed to be gusting off the land. I glimpsed a peregrine flying by. The sea was too rough to see much in the way of bird life.  I reached a gate which I struggled to close against the wind and with the path narrowing close to very steep drops I decided to retrace my steps and find an inland route. Even here it was windy but I followed paths, mostly sunken bridleways lined by turf covered banks, it seemed as if everything was just about to burst into growth. Foxglove rosettes were bright green and blackthorn buds were just about to break.

The most notable place I passed was a chapel in ruins in the midst of nowhere. The pulpit was still standing despite the roof starting to cave in. I could see other chapels scattered across the farmland. All servicing a small community. Throughout the walk I passed many ruins under many brambles, and in woodlands were derelict walls and buildings. I guess the population was much larger once. Sustained by industries long since gone. Maybe quarrying and fishing. Also farms now need few labourers so I guess many buildings are redundant.  I must read up about the history of Welsh chapels.

I headed back to the coast where a small stream cut down to the sea to see if the wind had eased.  I am glad I did as saw a peregrine again and the cliffs I had bypassed had  terrific folds in the rocks, these being Pembrokeshire’s highest cliffs. The wind was still too much and the path even narrower. I headed inland again.

The weather was changing and after leaving the cliffs it became  grey and colder. I followed quiet tarmac lanes and then dropped down to the deserted beech of  Ceibwr bay. The sun appeared and I finally sat down in a sheltered spot, the only person on the beach.

Ceibwr bay

The last km wound up through an attractive ash woodland along a stream fringed by violets, wild garlic leaves and golden saxifrage. A few daffodils, celandine and primrose added to the yellow of spring.   A couple of tantalising signs pointed to the garden centre café.  Once the walk was over I drove to the garden centre I had passed earlier in the day, for a coffee and a wander.  I could not resist coming away with a few plants for our new garden.   Tight curls of pond weed in a pot for our new pond. I seem to always be carting plants around the country.  Before now I have bought plants from driveway sales and carried them many km in my rucsac when walking.

View from hotel window 

Day 8 Gwbert to Poppit Sands

Day 8
Friday 27th March
Gwbert to Poppit Sands

Walk distance 4.7km
Cycle 4.8km
Height 54m
2 hours
Bus from Poppit Sands to Cardigan

Total coastal distance walked  4.7km
Total coastal distance cycled 4.8km

Running coastal total distance  106.25km
Running height climbed  2773m


Drove via Rhayader to Cardigan and parked at Poppit Sands at the end of the Teifi Estuary. The recently surfaced and enormous car park suggested that this is a very popular spot in season. After a snack on the beech I waited at a very smart brand new timber bus shelter for the bus, aptly named  the Poppit rocket.

 It arrived promptly and I took it to the centre of Cardigan and hopped off by the castle walls. Within a minute of crossing the bridge over the Teifi and leaving the small town I was walking alongside primrose and celandine lined streams and paths. I followed the coastal path across very wet fields to the large village of St. Dogmaels. The Abbey museum was open so I explored it before wandering amongst the ruins. How many people are disappointed by the interactive displays in a museum when they don’t work?  When there is a button to press, I press it. Nothing happens and I press again, and again, and again…In the museum were ancient Christian stone crosses, undoubtedly the most striking objects on display.  The Abbey fell into disuse 4 years after the dissolution of the monasteries. Robbed of stone for houses and a sixteenth century church little survived. The



crypt, now roofless, with a few remnant columns was the most interesting. After a coffee in the cafe I walked through the picturesque village and by its pond decorated with ducks. Daffodils colored many gardens.


At St. Dogmaels the Pembrokeshire Coastal path officially starts, marked by a small and rather non descript plinth. At this point I must have just passed my 100km mark.  The views down the woodland cloaked winding estuary were impressive.

From the village the path went close to the river and then rejoined the tarmac lane to Poppit sands. As the road drew closer to the waters edge I could see and here curlew and oystercatcher very close up.

One plant I passed I would have to look up. A large yellow green umbellifer in flower. I thought Alexander’s. Later I confirmed this and its home range is Macedonia.  Introduced to Britain as a herb apparently all of it is edible.

Once back at the car I drove to the Cliff hotel at Gwbert. After a brief nap I cycled the north side of the estuary completing the only bit of the Ceredigion coast line section I had not walked.
In Cardigan I ate stir fry at the Chinese I had enjoyed so much on the previous visit.  The bar at the hotel was so packed I did not make use of it, and instead settled down to watch films in a rather luxurious bed room.  The views across the estuary from the window were fine, looking directly across to Poppit Sands.

Cardigan bay hinterland.

Monday 16th February 2015
Cardigan bay hinterland.

Cilgerren Castle and Llanerchaeron house.

Cilgerren Castle sits on the banks of the Afon Teif and although ruined is impressive. Deserted I climbed up the two surviving towers and admired the views.  The castle was Norman, built to tame the Welsh.  Llyweyn captured and held the castle for a while, but it was mostly in English hands and eventually decayed playing no part in Edward Is campaigns or the Civil war.

                         


Llanerchaeron house, inland of Aberaeron, is  traditional country house, designed by John Nash.  Its large walled garden and adjacent farm are well worth visiting. I was most impressed by the house and the hidden section behind housing servants quarters and rooms for absolutely everything from drying clothes, laundering clothes, bread making, cheese making, to making ale, storing cheese, preparing for riding and more than one kitchen. The farm out buildings also gave me an idea to the purpose now defunct buildings I have seen around more modern farms that I used to work on.  E.g Threshing barns, grain stores and piggeries.  Fox and otter hunting were really important and numerous heads decorated the house, over all most every door, along with hunting scenes on the walls.

Day 7 Aberporth to Gwybert

Day 7 Sunday 15th February

Aberporth to Gwybert

Walk distance 16km
Height 495m
5 hours
Cycle to Aberporth from Gwybert

Total coastal distance walked  16km
Running coastal total distance  96.75km
Running coastal total height 2719m




I cycled to Aberporth from car park by the cliff hotel at Gwybert.   Cycling was a shock to the system and it was further than I thought, although I did make a few wrong turns. However it was a pretty ride along narrow quiet lanes.  Once in Aberporth I had a coffee at the same café from the day before and commenced the walk.

Every walk seems to start with a steep incline.   Initially a really steep walk up past the huge fenced and ugly M.O.D Quinetic centre

was rewarded by a gentle walk to the cliff above a beautiful scrubby valley.
Here I saw my first wild snopdrop just coming into flower and golden saxifrage by a stream in bud
. 

The walking was once again spectacular and en route saw impressive rock formations including an arch close to the end point. Much of the cliff top seemed better managed with more grassland and less scrub.

On the previous days I noticed that the wide upper cliff tops were smothered in bracken, bramble or blackthorn. On this open grassland choughs were evident basking in the warm sunshine and also feeding.

Choughs

The warm weather had encouraged the first celandine, daisy and dandelion to flower. Just as I approached Foel y Mynt, the conical cliff side hill, the weather changed. Wind increased and cloud and mist rolled in. Too late to stop for a relaxing picnic I pressed on admiring the views of Mynt beech and Cardigan island.

Cardigan Island

Foel y Mynt

Not a single bird of prey today. For the first time I encountered a blocked path. A huge fresh manure pile had been dumped on a kissing gate. Maybe unhappy with the newly restored sections. I contacted the trail website to let them know.  Quite lengthy sections had been restored and new steps built into slopes.  At the end of today's walk I was pretty shattered and once again ate at the Chinese in Cardigan.   3km shy of my first 100km!

Day 6 New Quay to Aberporth

Day 6 Saturday 14th February
New Quay to Aberporth

Walk distance 21.5km
Height 1035m
7 hours
Bus from Aberporth to New Quay

Total coastal distance walked  21.5
Running coastal total distance  80.75km
Running coastal total height 2224m

 After a huge cooked breakfast I drove to Aberporth and caught a bus to New Quay. This little village is quite pleasant. Once again I commenced walk in fine weather. It even felt warm. Today was to be a bit of a route march if I was to get to Aberporth before dusk. Consequently I may have missed the illusive dolphins. There are adverts for dolphin watching trips and on almost ever interpretation board are pictures of what to look out for. Over the weekend I didn’t see one and even every seal sighting turned out to be a buoy as I focused upon small objects in the sea. Of mammals I did see a badger just five minutes into the walk. But this was dead and on a path which seemed rather unnatural. The views along the coastline were stunning. I did not see many birds from the old coast guard look out at bird rock. Passed Castell Bach an island hill fort.

Most notable was the little bay at Cymtdu and then the very dramatic path contouring high cliffs. The exposure was breathtaking. Following a landslide a new path had also just been cut. The lack of footprints suggested I was perhaps the first walker to use this new path. I would not have wanted to be the mini digger driver working on this. Certainly wouldn't walk this way in high winds.

Llangranog

After 4 hours and another hill fort I reached the delightful colourful hamlet of Llangranog with the rock stack of Carreg Bica.

Penbryn was attractive, especially so because of the impressive fern clad woodland.

With the tide high I had to follow the cliff top path to Tresaith. Besides snowdrops seen in the churchyard at St Inna the day before I saw the first s spring flowers. This was the reptilian yellow topped flower of coltsfoot growing on a path that had just been re sculpted.
I was so glad to have a coffee. The next section of path became muddier and more slippery.
Aberporth was initially a rather disappointing destination, mainly because I missed my bus.  From the wrong side of the small river I saw it leave. Whilst the beach was pretty the village was dominated by many houses, holiday homes and caravans. On the plus side some old railway carriage homes had survived.

Id love to stay in one of those. During the day id seen surprisingly few birds besides the normal gulls and cormorants. At Aberporth though I saw a large group of oystercatchers. Its possible I saw a merlin on the cliffs, but it flew off too fast.  Other highlights were dunnock and stonechat singing on top of gorse. After a wait in a café I caught a later bus.  On the bus on the way back a guy got on to cardigan carrying two bunches of valentine roses. His wife was sending his gift back as they were not in the best condition. Ate chicken stir fry at a Chinese restaurant which was great.

Day 5 Aberaeron to New Quay

Day 5   Friday 13^th February 2015
Aberaeron to New Quay


Walk distance 9.5km

Height 225m

4 hours

Bus from New Quay to Aberaeron

Total coastal distance walked 9.5

Running coastal total distance 59.25km

Running coastal total height 1189m


Third weekend of explore Britain with me.


Friday 13th. Drove through mid Wales via Newtown in miserable weather with lots of rain and low cloud. There were patches of snow on north facing hill slopes and a proper dusting on the highest ones. Saw many kites after passing Churchstoke. Before mid day I parked in New Quay and caught a bus to Aberaeron and was able to start walking soon after noon. Despite the forecast it was sunny and so I enjoyed a coffee and sausage roll overlooking the harbour. Aberaeron is very colourful with its multi palette of houses. Just as I started the walk proper a distant squall gave rise to a beautiful complete rainbow.

 The cliffs are high on this section but the tops are concave so it is difficult to see the faces. The water fall of Afon Drywl was impressive, pouring over the cliff top. In the sun it seemed like spring was near and the leaves of celandine and Lords and ladies were evident. The white of Gulls showed vividly against the darkening sky. Robins and stonechat made their presence known. At one point I was startled when a raven whooshed two feet above my head. In not sure if was trying to scare me or whether it flew over me by chance as it came up over the cliff edge.

Visited the church of St. Inna where I sheltered for a bit as it was starting to rain hard. This church is dedicated to a king of Wessex. The shore path to New Quay was not passable so I followed the inland route along lanes and road. I passed a huge, but smart, caravan park. However, they are ugly development's. 

New Quay was deserted with sea front cafes mostly closed and the sandy beech empty. The rain was still coming down hard and I was soggy with condensation. I took advantage of a fish and chip shop and sat down in the warm to a really good meal. Friday night I stayed at Highbury bed and breakfast in Cardigan.`