Day 4 Llanrhystud to Aberaeron

Day 4.  Sunday 12th October 2014
Llanrhystud to  Aberaeron

Walk distance 11.75km
Height 105m
4 hours
Bus to Llanrhystud from Aberaeron

Total coastal distance walked  11.75
Running coastal total distance  49.75km
Running coastal total height 964m

Both mornings the breakfast at Glyn Garth was great and sustained me throughout the two walks.  I love full breakfasts, and its rare to have such a good one! Louis’s cooking was great.  However today I had to rush it as if I wanted to walk the next session I would have to drive to Aberaeron to catch the only morning Sunday bus back to Llanrhysud. Of course, in a hurry I was thwarted. First by getting lost trying to leave Aberystwyth - there were diversions in place and then second, getting behind a tanker that crawled up the coastal hills.  I parked and rushed to the bus stop and made it with seconds to spare.  By 10AM I was walking at Llanrhystud again. The path immediately turned away from the hideous caravan park and followed the long shingle ridge and past old lime kilns. The sky was blue and the waning moon above the sea looked beautiful.  The first part of the walk was dominated by flat farmland, some ploughed and some with livestock. Each hedgerow or stone wall seemed to be the territory of  a robin, who announced their presence to me. The farmland seemed alive with birds, suggesting not many chemicals are used.  There were flocks of linnets feeding in a brassica field.  A sparrow hawk shot by me, chased by two jackdaws.  I also saw meadow pipits feeding and one solitary swallow flying south, on its migration to Africa.  The warm weather was giving the insects a chance to fly  and there were many wasps feeding on ivy clad farm walls and I even saw a few butterflies, mostly red admirals.
The walking at first was level, running along the top of low cliffs.

C of E recruitment campaign

At Llansantiffraid village I diverted along the beech.  At high tide this would not be possible.  The tide had already nearly reached the cliff so I wasn’t sure if I had time to walk it all. The alternative was a longer inland diversion. As I wasn’t sure where to climb back onto the coastal path I popped up each set of metal steps to see where I was. The farmland here is divided into linear medieval fields, and its not possible to walk across the numerous fence boundaries. The beach provided the quickest route despite the incoming tide.  The sea looked really inviting. It was incredibly calm and the air temperature was warming.   I am sure this would be a safe place to swim in the summer. Half way along the walk, the path gently climbed until before I knew it I was again on very high cliffs.  Bracken and gorse dominated these slopes.
In contrast to the farmland here sea gulls and corvids dominated the air. Jackdaws, crows and ravens all flew around. Out to see I could just make out gannets and occasionally a cormorant would fly by.  The path then dropped down to the village of Aberarth. A pretty village bisected by a small river. I watched  a dipper dipping on a rock protruding from the water.  Cottage industry is thriving here - one house selling honey, another jam. These old fishermen cottages, that were probably peasant hovels, are now desirable places to live. The price tag on one was nearly £300000.

The rest of the walk was again dominated by a long pebble beach which was hard to walk on.  I wonder just how much litter I will see around Britains coast. The natural flotsam and jetsam is interesting, but to see so much plastic is worrying. Where do all the odd shoes come from?

 Aberaeron harbour and village is beautiful. All most every house is painted and the whole place has a happy feel. After a coffee by the harbour it was time to head home after another enjoyable weekend.

Aberaeron

Day 3 Aberystwyth to Llanrhystud

Day 3

Saturday 11th October 2014
Aberystwyth to Llanrhystud

Walk distance 17km
Height 465m
5 hours
Bus back to Aberystwth

Total coastal distance walked  17
Running coastal total distance  38km
Running coastal total height 859m

Walked around Aberystwyth harbour and crossed the two rivers whose confluence meet in the harbour. In the past the harbour was used for exporting lead ore,ship building and fishing. Above the rivers is an iron age hill fort, Pendinas.

Tan y bwlch pebble beach was interesting and there were still plants in flower. These included the white flowers of sea campion and English stonecrop. Next came a very steep climb up Allt Wen. A red kite appeared and throughout the walk I could often see a kite or buzzard.

The tilted layered rocks is dramatic and you can see that some of these have slid towards the sea. In many places the cliffs are slumping and fences have had to be moved. The landward side is much more managed than north of Aberystwyth. The soft boulder clay is very fertile and many fields are cattle grazed. There is also lots of sheep.

The ruined Farm at Ffos-lasis rather sad I would love to live in such a beautiful place . Whilst eating lunch there I wondered if Ebola could have the same impact on the landscape that the plague had. If it took hold or became more contagious probably only people living in such remote places would be safe. Further on I reached Penderi cliffs nature reserve. An impressive steep sessile oak wood.

The trees gnarled and shortened by the wind. The path on the cliff was very steep. Without the trees to hold onto or the illusion of a barrier below I might not have ventured down. At the end of a dead end overlooking steep cliffs I was delighted that a chough flew by. It's curved red bill visible.  These members of the crow family are rare.  They feed on insects and probably declined due to changing farming practices and increased use of insecticides and wormers. A large sea cave was also visible from the reserve. Cormorants could be seen perched on the rocks. Out of place, I also saw one sat on a beech. The beeches on this leg of the walk are all stony and inaccessible. All along this walk I had watched two fishing boats at work. Occasionally a seals head would be visible too. Once in a while there was a flurry of bird activity and I saw stonechats, linnets and rock pipits. The end of the walk finished at a very large caravan park at Llanrhystud. To be honest this was very ugly, dominating what would have been a nice pebble beach. It took ages to walk past it, row upon row of stark white metal boxes. The village was no better, dominated by a Texaco garage. By luck a bus arrived within a minute and took me to Aberystwyth. The outskirts of the town were no different to many British towns. Two retail parks with identical shops to everywhere else. Only some signs in Welsh reminded me I was in another country. However the sea front is what makes Aberystwyth special. Besides Edward Is castle ruin, the pier the colourful Victorian buildings and cliff railway make it. Two night running I had great fish and chips from a chipy opposite the pier. Tonight I was able to watch the sun set. It had been a fine day. Even in the town, on the beech, are ringed plovers, oystercatcher and rock pipits. Of course there are gulls and pigeons everywhere taking advantage of scraps. I am glad the walk is going well. With the soulless caravan park visible for the last mile I did start thinking about how I could cycle some parts, or even investigate if it was possible to go by boat along some of the coast to avoid land sections that may be tedious.

Aberystwyth hinterland. Plinlimon

Friday 10^th October 2014

Aberystwyth hinterland.
Plinlimon.

Walk distance 5km

Height climbed 408m

3.5 hours

Second weekend of explore Britain with me. Journey from Worcester started well with blue sky and a full moon. Within minutes of entering Wales on the A40 I saw a red kite. Stopped off at Ty Morgans bistro in Rhayader for coffee and a hot sausage roll. Turning off the A44 the drive along the single dead end track to the east end of Nant y moch reservoir is impressive. The dam is a real wonder of engineering. I parked near Maesnant. Walked East to the small ford at Nant Y Llyn whuch I crossed with no problems. Two walkers from Sussex who I chatted with at the summit both had missed their footing and fell into the stream. The wind was much stronger by now and frequent banks of rain cloud passed through, and in between there was blue sky and the odd rainbow. I had read that Plinlimon is desolate but I thought over wise. Its vast sky and open space, patchwork of bronzes, browns and greens made me smile and feel alive. Everything was clothed with life, even the rocks were covered in numerous different lichens. Nourished by rainfall the moss under foot oozed water. Each step sunk into the sphagnum. Underground rivulets and streams could be heard all around. With in the first half hour I had seen a kite, then a buzzard (which has a 136cm wingspan) drifting low along a crag. Below the tiniest bird, a wren, with a wingspan no greater than 17cm ranging an alarm call either at me or the buzzard. By the time I reached Llyn Lygad the weather closed in and the skies darkened. The lake backed by high crags looked dramatic. The rain then started to drive in the wind. The steep climb to the top of Plinlimon at 752m made more exhilarating by the gusts. Amazingly the clouds passed by and as I neared the top the sea and Cardigan Bay became visible. The views were terrific and even Cadar Idris appeared briefly to the north. I could see the next hill where the river Wye commences. On the way down the Maesnant stream I walked over several bogs characterised by the dead flower stalks of bog asphodel. I thought I would see carnivorous plants but they were not obvious until I got down onto my hands and knees. Being colder the sundews had entered winter dormancy and only their tiny buds (3 to 5mm) were visible in the peat. (right of stone)

Back at the car I had to change completely and despite only seeing 4 walkers a car went passed at that awkward moment when trousers are half off and I was balancing in the grass. The walk took 3,5hours and covered maybe 5 km
Nany Yarian Forestry Commission visitor centre is just a few km down the A44. By chance I arrived when they were feeding the kite and I counted over 200, most flying, some perched in trees and some swooping to take meat.
Arriving in Aberystwyth, I walked along the sea front and ate fish and chips under the castle, before checking in at Glyn Garth Bed and Breakfast.

Day 2 Borth to Aberystwyth.

Day two.  Sunday 31st August 2014
Borth to Aberystwyth.
Walk distance 10.6
Height 394m

Train back to Borth

Total distance walked  11
Running total distance  21km
Running total height 394m

After a hearty breakfast I headed off on the first day walk. Borth is strung along a coastal road. Many of the houses even now look like the original fishermens cottages. Some are timber. Lots of small quaint shops along the route. I stopped for coffee even before I had really started in one of the old cottages. This part of Borth flooded in the winter storms. The huge sea defences make sense here. The walk started, quickly ascending very high slate cliffs. The views behind showing much of the estuary and Cadar Idris, its’ summit still hidden. The path sides and cliff tops were dominated by the end of season grass growth as well as banks of berry covered brambles and spiky gorse. In land it was mostly overgrazed sheep pasture with seeding thistle heads. A few fields had been let go or perhaps were to steep and were covered in dense gorse. The call of a stonechat did not surprise me. Perched on a fence, they nest in such thickets. Nearing the first high point I crossed the wide turf to look down on the sea. There below me sat a peregrine. I watched it for maybe five minutes before she flew and then a few minutes later saw a kestrel on a fence post and then three red kites drifted over. The birds I saw most were wheatears. At one point I stopped to admire the view and two raven drifted up unexpectedly a few yards from me. With a few rapid wing beats they shot off as soon as they saw me. The first place of note was an isolated farm house, Wallog, right on a small beach. A small restored building that looked like a fortification was in fact an old lime kiln. Yellow sea poppies were in flower on the pebbles.  Extending from the beech and underwater as the tide was now in, is a glacial moraine extending for miles into the sea.

On the cliffs the last summer flowers were still out. Yarrow, ladies bedstraw and knapweed although most were going over. I saw my first seal appear and it looked like it was watching those on the cliff path.

The least attractive place was a huge caravan park. The coastal path above it spoilt by views of compost and detritus. Litter and dog poo bags strewn along the path. But despite this the park, amusements and cafes were clean with a guy picking up litter. A pity he did not stray beyond the boundary. I thought I must carry a bag for rubbish next time. The cold temperature was keeping people off the beach. Two RNLI life guards had no custom. I sat having a coffee, the only one on the beach.  The day was warming though and I took my top off while I ate a healthy lunch of oatcakes and cheese. The lifeguard said the sea was actually warm. After the park there was just one steep climb before Aberystwyth. Had I of spotted it I would have tried the funicular railway. By now I was pretty hot and tired from the ups and downs. Once in the town I walked along the sea front to the Victorian pier. I sat for while and saw the first adult go in the water. He got out seconds later. At the TIC I bought a book of coastal walks also running anti clockwise around Ceredigion. I walked down to the ruined castle, destroyed by Cromwell. First built by the Llewellyn the Great it was also held twice by Owain Glyndwr. Aber is an attractive town and the harbour very pretty. A RNLI volunteer tried to sell me membership. I was interested to hear how many people they help each day and in winter they tern to flood relief and assistance. I caught the train back to Borth and then tried to go for a swim. The water was warm but the hidden forest as the tide was out was off-putting. Ive named it the furry forest.  But I did briefly get immersed. After a shower I spoke to a young Yorkshire couple who are taking rides on all the steam trains in the area. Maybe I can incorporate some train journeys into this epic.

Day 1 Ynyslas to Borth

Day One Saturday 30^th August 2014

Ynyslas to Borth

Dyfi Estuary

Me

Tree stumps 4500 years old

Sunken forest and peat

Walk Distance 5 Km

Height 0m

Running total distance 10km

Running total height 0m

First day...around the coast of Britain. As I walked the few km from Borth Youth Hostel to the end of the long spit of sand that projects into the Dyfi estuary an idea started to formulate. Over the years I have walked bits of the coast and climbed a few hills and mountains. But Id had never completed a long distance path and had yet to get to many of the destinations I wanted to see. The man at the hostel recommended walking to Aberystwyth along the cliff path. I desperately want to see much of this island....whether it is city, mountain or coast. With low cloud deterring me from Plynlimon or Cadar this weekend I decided I should start walking the coast of Britain. I started thinking of various options, such as the Welsh coast and then realised that now was as good a time as any to start as here I was with my feet in the sand. I am not sure how this journey will evolve. It may be not practical to walk it all in the fleeting weeks and days I will have...and visit all those other places. Maybe busses and trains will be taken to get around the impassable or dreary. Then again maybe I must see the dreary too to know this country more. I will allow my rules to evolve as it may take several years or decades to accomplish this. Do I do it in order. Can I do bits clockwise or anti clockwise?

I figured the end of the Dyfi estuary was as good a place as any to start. With the sun starting to set and with few people around it seemed just right for my first mid life crisis to evolve. Dark clouds hid Cadar Idris and covered all the hinterland beyond the estuary. The shore though was bright, the sand lit by the evening light. Opposite the lights of Aberdovey looked welcoming, a small town clinging to the side of the estuary. I spoke with Richie on the phone just as I was setting off, knowing that for me this will be the start of a very long journey. By now the beach was deserted as I walked along the edge of the water which was now advancing swiftly over the broad sands. I photographed a line of castles built to halt its progress. Another defence,the first of undoubtedly many WWII block houses was perched on the dunes. Ynyslas dunes are some of the best in Wales, with many rare plants such as bee orchids. Beyond the dunes I then passed row upon row of groynes, most buried to their shoulders in sand. It is evident just how powerful the sea is at moving the beeches. Then a real find, my first one, an intact large blue spade rolling around in the waves. Further on the first of many exposed tree stumps and a humus peaty soil being rapidly covered by the incoming tide. A petrified forest dating over 4500 years old once again showing how the coastline could change. As the sea levels rose it was first enveloped in peat bog and later the sea. I saw one cormorant and a few gulls. I must start to learn the different species of gull. Then a flock of oystercatchers showed their presence by shrill alarm calls. In the vanishing light I try and walk around them, but one or two nearest me start to fly and they all follow suit calling as they flew into the gloom. Two fisherman were silhouetted using lines in the darkness. Nearing the hostel I pass the first of many massive stones, as large as cars, carefully placed to stop the sea destroying Borth and the low lying land beyond. Much of this work is still in progress. Huge machines sit behind a fence waiting to commence work after the weekend. Earlier I had seen a rock pipit on them already making use of an artificial habitat.

A few flashing lights could be seen around the cliffs to the south. On my return I have my first interaction. Bizarrely with a talkative Dane. Looking for work in Aberystwyth restoring classic bikes. Amicably separating from his wife to start afresh. He told me of the challenges of signing on. He found the staff didnt understand his rights as a EU citizen.  Reminds me of when I was volunteering with btcv and most job centre staff were not aware that you could volunteer and claim job seekers allowance. I had to explain almost every time until my kindly training officer at helped to register me for postal singing on. I wished him luck and tat the same time hoped he wouldn’t snore.