Day One Saturday 30th August 2014
Ynyslas to Borth
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Dyfi Estuary |
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Me |
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Tree stumps 4500 years old |
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Sunken forest and peat |
Walk Distance 5 Km
Height 0m
Running total distance 10km
Running total height 0m
First day...around the coast of Britain. As I walked the few km from Borth Youth Hostel to the end of the long spit of sand that projects into the Dyfi estuary an idea started to formulate. Over the years I have walked bits of the coast and climbed a few hills and mountains. But Id had never completed a long distance path and had yet to get to many of the destinations I wanted to see. The man at the hostel recommended walking to Aberystwyth along the cliff path. I desperately want to see much of this island....whether it is city, mountain or coast. With low cloud deterring me from Plynlimon or Cadar this weekend I decided I should start walking the coast of Britain. I started thinking of various options, such as the Welsh coast and then realised that now was as good a time as any to start as here I was with my feet in the sand. I am not sure how this journey will evolve. It may be not practical to walk it all in the fleeting weeks and days I will have...and visit all those other places. Maybe busses and trains will be taken to get around the impassable or dreary. Then again maybe I must see the dreary too to know this country more. I will allow my rules to evolve as it may take several years or decades to accomplish this. Do I do it in order. Can I do bits clockwise or anti clockwise?
I figured the end of the Dyfi estuary was as good a place as any to start. With the sun starting to set and with few people around it seemed just right for my first mid life crisis to evolve. Dark clouds hid Cadar Idris and covered all the hinterland beyond the estuary. The shore though was bright, the sand lit by the evening light. Opposite the lights of Aberdovey looked welcoming, a small town clinging to the side of the estuary. I spoke with Richie on the phone just as I was setting off, knowing that for me this will be the start of a very long journey. By now the beach was deserted as I walked along the edge of the water which was now advancing swiftly over the broad sands. I photographed a line of castles built to halt its progress. Another defence,the first of undoubtedly many WWII block houses was perched on the dunes. Ynyslas dunes are some of the best in Wales, with many rare plants such as bee orchids. Beyond the dunes I then passed row upon row of groynes, most buried to their shoulders in sand. It is evident just how powerful the sea is at moving the beeches. Then a real find, my first one, an intact large blue spade rolling around in the waves. Further on the first of many exposed tree stumps and a humus peaty soil being rapidly covered by the incoming tide. A petrified forest dating over 4500 years old once again showing how the coastline could change. As the sea levels rose it was first enveloped in peat bog and later the sea. I saw one cormorant and a few gulls. I must start to learn the different species of gull. Then a flock of oystercatchers showed their presence by shrill alarm calls. In the vanishing light I try and walk around them, but one or two nearest me start to fly and they all follow suit calling as they flew into the gloom. Two fisherman were silhouetted using lines in the darkness. Nearing the hostel I pass the first of many massive stones, as large as cars, carefully placed to stop the sea destroying Borth and the low lying land beyond. Much of this work is still in progress. Huge machines sit behind a fence waiting to commence work after the weekend. Earlier I had seen a rock pipit on them already making use of an artificial habitat.
A few flashing lights could be seen around the cliffs to the south. On my return I have my first interaction. Bizarrely with a talkative Dane. Looking for work in Aberystwyth restoring classic bikes. Amicably separating from his wife to start afresh. He told me of the challenges of signing on. He found the staff didnt understand his rights as a EU citizen. Reminds me of when I was volunteering with btcv and most job centre staff were not aware that you could volunteer and claim job seekers allowance. I had to explain almost every time until my kindly training officer at helped to register me for postal singing on. I wished him luck and tat the same time hoped he wouldn’t snore.
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