Day 11 Newport to Fishguard

Day 11
Monday 27th April
Newport to Fishguard

Walk distance 19km
Cycle 0km
Height 800m
6 hours
Bus from Fishguard to Newport

Total coastal distance walked  19
Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance  153.45km
Running height climbed  4813m




I took the bus to Newport soon after 9am. There was a small market in the road leading to the private castle, selling produce like local honey. Tempting to buy but not to carry it. The walk started well climbing up smaller cliffs than the day before. The path dropped down to several beautiful and fairly sheltered beaches. The air temperature was apparently only 5 or 6 degrees and in the wind under clouds it felt bitter. In contrast there were moments when the sun shone and it was hot. A lizard scuttled across the path at one point so in the sheltered places it must have been much warmer. Leading up to Cym yr Eglwys I walked under a tunnel of blackthorn.

With rain threatening the wind blew the petals down like snow. The ruined church on the shore was the result of a powerful storm. Although the shortcut was tempting I started the climb up to the headland of Dinas island. I was rewarded by my first proper views of razorbills and guillemots perched on a stack. All in strong plumage they looked beautiful. Some of the razorbills were on the sea and occasionally went under water after food. Some of the birds were sat on eggs. The rain held off and I was able to sit on the headland, Pen y Fan, at 142 m in sunshine. After a bit of lunch for the first time since walking the coast my ankles ached. The next section of cliffs also included beaches. In places trees on the cliff path were growing horizontally. Towards the end in a more sheltered spot I saw spring squill.  

At a rather smart caravan park I met one of the coastal path rangers. He asked after my walk. He was discussing improving the path on the cliff side with the owner. There was a magnificent rock arch beyond the park.


The path crossed the flanks of heather clad moorland. Unusually wood anemone carpeted underneath. As the harbour became visible wildlife still abounded as I watched two gannets diving.


Birdlife had been abundant all day. Rather than list everything the birds that were most obvious were chiffchaff willow wabler and whitethroat. All around signs of spring. I love the reptilian scaled fronds of ferns as they emerge.





On the last promontory overlooking Fishguard lower town is the remains of a fort complete with canon.

Once in Fishguard I just had time, before 5 pm to call in to the town hall to see the famous tapestry commemorating the 200 years since the last invasion. Strange to think of this happening only 200 years ago. In 1797 the French launched an invasion, landing just south of Fishguard. They had hoped the poor would join them to overthrow the crown.  They succeeded in landing and even set up a camp, and pillaged the surrounding area. Thanks to the quick reactions of the military and locals they realised they could not succeed and surrendered fairly quickly.  A number of people were killed and building ransacked. We are so lucky that besides the bombings in the wars that theirs been peace here for so long.

In the evening I walked to the Globe to try their curry.   The pub was busier and a young man called Sam joined me at my table.  He was from London, and was a photographer down to film a lighthouse for an advertising campaign for EE.  Made for an interesting evening sat in front of the hot wood burning stove.

Whimberel near Newport

Seaview hotel