Day 12 Fishguard to Pwll Deri

Day 12
Sunday 31st May
Fishguard to Pwll Deri

Walk distance 15km  est
Cycle 0km
Height 460 m est
6 hours
Bus from Pwll Deri to Goodwick Harbour

Total coastal distance walked  15km
Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance  168.45km

Running height climbed  5273m

 

Walked the mile down the lane to the bus stop. The lanes are mostly lined with stone walls bedecked in plants. This one had an array of coastal and wayside plants. I counted over 30 species in flower and there were others not yet mature enough. I even saw orpine, a pretty rare plant (sedum telephium), but one that wasnt in flower yet. While I waited for the bus I took photos of some of the flowers. The bus arrived, leaving early and dropped me off at the rail station at Goodwick. The route went by the headland giving me a tantalising glimpse of the walk.  I was tempted by a café at Goodwick and enjoyed a coffee before starting. 

Goodwick is sheltered and a huge Agave was growing in a front garden. 


As usual the first part involved a climb, past houses above the port and finally onto the open cliffs. A metal beacon sponsored by British gas and a canon marked this point. Looking back to the harbour I could see several ruined buildings, probably WW2 fortifications. On one was a most surreal and out of place graffiti picture of a head. 






Rounding the first point I watched a ferry approach. The weather was amazing and it was good to see so many flowers. The purple foxgloves were the most striking plant. In places there were swathes of pink thrift or red campion, bluebells or  blue of  spring squill and white of sea campion; occasionally palettes of each colour mixed. In places entire walls were carpeted. It was not long until I saw my first seal from a low cliff top. This one was definitely watching me. I sat down on a grassy bank for elevenses to watch him and every few minutes the seal would reappear. When I walked on the seal followed me around several coves. I also had lovely close views of meadow pipits and stonechats. 

Cwm Felin was s sheltered green oasis. Mostly dominated by sycamore. On the next point was the stone commemorative inscription to the French invasion in 1797. 

With the warm sun I noticed lots of insects and took some photos of a few. I was really struck by the roses growing amongst the heather. In one rose flower I watched a small spider. A tiny beetle walked by it, maybe after eating some pollen. The spider pounced on it but immediately withdrew. Perhaps it could not bite through its shell. Butterflies included wall and common blue.  
 


So good to see calves out in the fresh air eating real food. At Pwlluog there is a small beech where I saw more seals. Sheltered from the breeze I ate lunch watching one seal who kept checking on me. He seemed to hang in the water. I was even able to sunbathe. Rounding Strumble head the wind was fierce and seemed odd to see a fishermen perched on an exposed headland rock, by crashing waves. The lighthouse is impressive but unfortunately inaccessible. A sign in the bird hide explained its purpose and design. The light house is actually on an island. Islands and stacks are a real feature of this part of the coast. 


The higher vegetated ones are alive with seabirds, at present mostly gulls but also guillemot and razorbills. The last section to Pwll Deri is truely spectacular. Exposed to the full force of the wind, the several hundred foot high jagged cliffs are beautiful. Still more carpets of flowers. Also good views of choughs again.

Finally reached the hostel after a longer time walking than I had realised.
The evening in the hostel was very pleasant.  After a pasta sausage meal and a relaxing sit down I chatted to other hostellers.  These were all from abroad, from Germany and Netherlands.  One guy was a forester and another a land agent. The German lady worked with refugees and the Dutch woman with children.   We chad a lot in common and chatted all evening.  Before it was dark I walked up to the high point behind the hostel, Garn Fawr.  This is also a hill fort.  Every hill and promontory has an ancient fort on it here.  For instance, the nearest promontory of hard volcanic rock, Dinas Mawr has several ditches and banks to protect it.  Beyond this point are several islands and large rocks.  The view from Garn Fawr, with the sun setting were fantastic.  Numerous green fields make up a patchwork covering of the land right up to the cliff edge. Then along the cliff is  a very narrow swathe of more natural land.   Wildlife in this country is really pushed to its limits.  Due to the forecast the serious solo coastal walkers were all keen to walk the path the next day before the gales hit. One guy said he would rise at 5AM. Far too early, and I hoped he didn’t wake me!