Explore Britain with me...

Thank you for joining me. My journey has only just begun (September 2014). I will be travelling around the coast of Britain over the coming years. I hope to see all the coastline and much of the interior. I am going anticlockwise and randomly started at the Dyfi Estuary, one of the most beautiful parts of Wales that I already knew, overlooked by the most beautiful mountain Cadar Idris. I am looking forward to seeing and recording all sorts of things. My own passion extends to wildlife, geology, scenery, history, architecture and I am interested to meet people and see the communities and towns that I pass. I have read different accounts on the length of the coast and it varies enormously, but at its extreme could be as much as 37000km, taking into accurate measurements and including all the islands. I don't think that's feasible, but much probably is! I suspect Ill use a combination of foot power, bikes and busses if I am to do it all. Perhaps I can use boats too and maybe even swim a bit.

Sunday, 8 November 2015

Day 17 Newgale to Little Haven



Friday 30th October
Newgale to Little Haven


Walk distance 12.3km
Height 460m est
4 hours
Cycle 10km from Broad Haven to Newgale
Total coastal distance walked 12.3km
Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance 238.05km
Running height climbed 7556m


Arrived after a three and a quarter hour drive along the M4.  Soon after dusk I followed a sign into a carpark for the YHA and wondered where it was. The building was well hidden behind the car park.  I checked in and walked into Broad Haven. From the sea front I could see large white breakers and five ships illuminated at sea.  So refreshing to hear the sea. I ate a meal with a pint of Reverend James at the Galleon Inn.
After a good sleep, the only guest in a 7 bed dormitory I then cycled from the hostel to Newgale.   I followed the coastal lanes.  Where I could see the shore large waves crashed against the cliffs, as it was high tide. The first few minutes of cycling were hard, having to climb a very steep hill to Haroldston West at 91 meters. Laden with walking boots and all my walking gear I walked the steepest bit. There were two more similar hills to climb. But the down hills made up for it and some was on the level. Closer to Nolton haven I passed large flocks of starlings feeding on insects in the fields or perched on wires. Over 500 on one count. At Newgale I had Welsh cakes and coffee in Pebbles cafe and then cycled back to my start point parking my bike up at Newgale sand car park. 

Unlike the last time I was here, the seasonal RNLI lifeguard hut and volunteers had gone. While getting changed a friendly council worker, emptying litter bins, explained the main season was over but that he was back on duty for half term. He started early so he could get home to watch a match. There were several vehicles in the car park and a number of people were changing into wet suits. The wide sands were invisible under the high tide. As I started walking along the pebble bank I watched some surfers paddling out and waiting patiently for the right waves. The waves were pretty big. Whilst I watched I did see one ride a wave briefly.  










The path briefly followed the road and then started to climb the cliffs. 
Very soon a large chimney became visible.  This is all that remains of Trefane cliff colliery. Looking harder there are also remains of machinery and spoil heaps.   The site closed down in 1905. 

The cliffs along this section are very crumbly. Rickets head, perhaps of harder rock stands out. In the warm autumn sunshine I saw a butterfly and passed a couple watching a large toad hide itself in the heather. The light was wonderful. Surprisingly a number of flowers were still out, the occasional head of knapweed, ragwort and thrift.  A group of choughs kept calling as well. Rounding a corner Nolton Haven appeared. Several people were bobbing about in wetsuits. I stopped for a morning break sitting on a rock on the beach. The beech was busy with a few families and surfers. But dogs and dog walkers predominantly.  The owners identifiable because of their little black bags of poo.  Others identifiable by the high pitched shouting as they try to retrieve their dog from playing or fighting with another.  I counted ten dogs on the tiny beech. You’ll realise I am not a pet dog person, although I love working dogs. In my childhood I spent much time curled up next to warm and often wet gun dogs. This haven was another important place for exporting coal from. Hard to imagine these, now tranquil, places being so busy.
Moving on there is large scale land slips and hollows leading up to Druidston. The views out to sea showed large even waves rolling in, but countering this from the south the wind blew smaller waves at right angles. Large ships sat at anchor, the same ones I had seen in the dark. I had lunch at Druidston Haven beach. It was warm enough for one man to be shirtless. I did not think it quite that warm. I spent some time looking at rock pools and watched a top shell slowly moving, creating a path in the sands. 


Disappointingly, after lunch, the wind picked up and it clouded over. Just before Broad Haven I glimpsed the towers of Milford Haven. They looked surprisingly close.
Broad Haven is a small place, but it boasts a shop, pub, bar and cafes. I walked on the sands as the tide was now out to the pretty village of Little Haven. Here, on the beach, I saw my first oystercatcher of the day. The cliffs here have amazing folds and there is one very large arched roof cave. I found a RNLI shop and thought I should support them after hearing one of their lifeguards was rescued by helicopter after he attempted to help someone stranded on the cliffs. I had seen and heard the helicopter the evening before.   The lady in the shop was very kind and talked about the walks near Dale. The short walk back to Broad Haven over the cliffs passed a sign to Little Haven, it read Little Haven big sign.
At Broad Haven I had a coffee and bumped into a chap with his family that I saw near Newgale photographing the bay. 
This weekend I tried Nordic walking again. I realise the poles I have are normal trekking pole, but they seem to make walking easier. It is a dilemma what to carry on these walks. Today I did not use my binoculars and carried an extra litre of water undrunk.  If I do not take these tomorrow I can guarantee ill need them.

I then drove to pick up the bike and returned to the hostel to shower and cook a meal. Whilst cooking I chatted to a couple who also walked in the area. They were disappointed to hear Marloes hostel was now shut. Sad the small self-catering hostels seem to close. It was much nicer the Broad Haven one. They kindly left me lots of chocolate nibbles.  

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