Day 18 Little Haven to Dale

Saturday 31^st October

Little Haven to Dale

Walk distance 25.4 km

Cycle 9 km from Dale to Little Haven, and 2km walk from Westdale bay to car at Pickleridge.

Height m 555 est

7.5 hours walking

Total coastal distance walked 23.4 km

Total coastal distance cycled 0

Running coastal total distance 261.45km

Running height climbed 8111m

I Started early again on Saturday.  A little annoyed I hadn't slept well, partly because of a guy arriving late in the dormitory.  I drove to a car park near to Dale for 8 and then cycled to Little Haven where I locked my bike up. The ride included a long climb and then went by a former RAF airfield.  Numerous derelict buildings could be seen on the site. Once again I noticed large flocks of starlings. There was then a very steep descent to Little Have. At 9 I started the walk. 


Unusually the start was not too steep and the walk to Borough Head quite different, passing through woodland and plantation.  There was a huge diversity of species including elm, pear, beech, sessile oak, sycamore, black thorn, pines and hawthorn. At one point I had to walk through a large number of flying wasps but these seemed so intent on feeding on ivy flowers they didn't bother me.  After a night of rain the path was very muddy and slippery. After the woodland the cliffs are more exposed. Gradually the ships at anchor came into better view. On Howney Stone, a small rocky islet, cormorants were sunning themselves.  In the shelter of banks there were a surprising number of plants in flower.  Today I saw even more butterflies, including red admirals and peacock. At St. Brides Haven the rocks became noticibly red. An attractive bay with cottages, church and an old lime kiln. 


Behind it, enclosed by an impressive wall lay St. Brides estate, a Victorian castle. The path then followed the buttressed perimeter wall. The cliffs gradually get higher towards Musselwick Bay. From here I am more familiar with the area as I have camped nearby and stayed at the former Marloes hostel. At Musselwick bay I swam many years ago and was given freshly barbecue mussels, by a guy on the beach, the first I had ever tasted. I was quite tired by now and had no idea of the time. I was looking for a suitable spot to stop, eat and sleep. Maybe I would shorten the walk. But the path was very narrow, and the grass dewey and I realised I had missed the turn off. Luckily a sign saying 2.5miles to Martins Haven reassured me. Just as I recognised the havens inlet and thinking I could sit in the sun on the beach I noticed a small group of people. They were watching a seal pub and its mother on the beach I was heading for.  The pup was almost as far up as the road. 
  


I took some photos and then walked up to the small look out station on the high point of the headland to have lunch. From here midland island Skomer and further away Skokholm were visible.  I had been walking for more or less for five hours. 
     

Reassured I had three hours before dusk, but not enough time to sleep I pressed on.  I had seen several seals swimming in the morning but closer to Martin Haven and around the deer park there seemed to be a pup on every stone beech. The next section of the walk is past Gateholm island and follows cliffs above Marloes beach. By now the sky was reddening. 

For the last two days I have seen so many choughs they seem common. One startled me considerably as I rounded a corner above Marloes. It flew up from the path feet away from me with a very loud caw. Then after a diversion onto the beach, I reached another disused World War II airfield, RAF Dale.  I followed one of the runways now partly covered in rubble. This must have been a very large site as there are lots of runways. Finally I approached the last bay with the sun setting.  A few surfers in the water, even though the light was fading.  From here I headed inland cutting off the peninsula, aiming for Dale.  Nearing the end I was tiring but enjoyed taking in the look of the colourful rendered houses, tall narrow square towered church and castle. The car was further away up the estuary than I realised but I made it just before dusk This was one of the longest walks I had done, pressured by the shortening day length.   I ate a lasagna at the hostel. This is the last night of their season and the place was much quieter than when I arrived.